The Breckwell Big E (P1000) is a workhorse pellet stove. It’s simple, tough, and many units have been running reliably for 10, 15, even 20+ years.
But after that much time, wear and tear start to show up: noisy blowers, lazy flames, shutdowns, and ignition problems. This guide walks through the most common Big E issues after 10+ years and what you can realistically check or fix as a homeowner.
⚠️ Safety First:
Always unplug the stove before working inside it. Let all parts cool completely. Follow your owner’s manual, and if you’re unsure about anything electrical, gas, or venting-related, contact a qualified stove technician.
1. Stove Won’t Feed Pellets or the Flame Keeps Going Out
One of the most common complaints on older Big E stoves is:
- “It’s not feeding pellets consistently,” or
- “The flame dies unless I turn it way up.”
After a decade of use, this usually comes down to ash buildup, a partial auger jam, or weak airflow, not the control board.
Things to Check
1. Deep Clean the Burnpot and Firebox
- Make sure the burnpot is seated all the way back in its proper position.
- Scrape out hard carbon deposits.
- Use a small tool or brush to open up any plugged air holes in the burnpot.
If the pot isn’t seated right or the holes are plugged, the flame can starve even though pellets are dropping.
2. Look for an Auger Jam
- Empty the hopper.
- Inspect for swollen pellets, sawdust, or foreign objects in the hopper and at the auger opening.
- If accessible on your setup, check the auger tube for packed fines.
A partial jam can cause intermittent or weak feeding, especially at lower settings.
3. Listen to the Auger Motor
When the feed light is on, you should hear a steady “click… turn… click… turn” pattern.
- If you hear a hum but no movement,
- Or the turning is erratic or weak,
…the auger motor or gearbox may be worn out and ready for replacement.
If the auger spins freely by hand with power disconnected but doesn’t run correctly under power, it’s time to test or replace the motor (or have a tech do so).
2. Stove Starts, Then Shuts Down and Flashes Lights
Another classic “older Big E” complaint:
“It starts up and runs for a while, then shuts down and flashes a trouble light.”
On a Big E, shutdowns with status lights often point to:
- Poor draft (restricted exhaust)
- Weak or dirty combustion blower
- Overheating or flame-out detected by safety sensors (snap discs / thermodiscs)
What You Can Do
1. Clean the Exhaust Path and Combustion Blower
Over years of use, ash builds up in:
- The combustion blower housing and fan wheel
- The exhaust passages inside the stove
- The vent pipe itself
That reduces airflow and makes the stove more likely to shut down.
Basic homeowner tasks (following the manual):
- Disconnect power and let the stove cool.
- Remove the combustion blower (if your skill/comfort level allows) and carefully clean the fan blades and housing.
- Use a brush and vacuum to clean accessible exhaust passages.
- Make sure the vent run to the outside is clear and not obstructed.
2. Brush the Heat Exchanger and Ash Traps
Use the built-in scraper (if equipped) and/or a brush to clean the heat exchanger tubes. Empty all ash pans and any hidden ash traps shown in your manual. Heavy ash buildup can confuse the safety controls and make flame stability worse.
3. Inspect Safety Switches and Wiring (Visually)
Older stoves can have:
- High limit switches that trip when the stove overheats
- Proof-of-fire / low limit switches that confirm there’s a flame
Over time, these can weaken and start tripping earlier than they should. You can:
- Make sure wiring connections are snug and not burnt or damaged.
- Visually inspect the snap discs for obvious damage.
Electrical testing and replacement of safety switches should be done carefully. If you’re unsure, this is a good time to involve a technician.
3. Poor Heat Output, Sooty Glass, and a Lazy Orange Flame
If your Big E:
- Doesn’t seem to heat like it used to
- Produces a lazy, dark orange flame
- Turns the glass black very quickly
…you’re most likely dealing with an air/fuel imbalance, not a “bad stove.”
Air, Fuel, and Leaks
Air Side:
- Dirty combustion blower or exhaust passages
- Blocked air intake or outside air kit
- Damper not set correctly for your pellet quality and feed rate
Fuel Side:
- Low-quality, dusty, or damp pellets
- Feed rate set too high for the available air
Air Leaks:
- Worn door gaskets
- Worn ash pan gaskets
- Poorly sealed clean-out covers
Simple Checks
1. Gasket Seal Test
On a 10+ year stove, door and ash pan gaskets are often cooked, flattened, or brittle.
- Close the door on a strip of paper or a dollar bill.
- Try to pull it out.
- If it slides out easily, the gasket isn’t sealing well and may need replacement.
New gaskets can dramatically improve draft and flame quality.
2. Review Cleaning and Damper Settings
- Confirm the stove and exhaust have had a thorough cleaning.
- Check your damper/air settings against the manual for your pellet type and heat level.
- Try a few bags of higher-quality pellets to see if the flame and heat improve.
4. Loud Fans, Rattling, and Squealing Noises
If your Big E now sounds like a shop vac, a rattle trap, or a squealing animal, it’s usually end-of-life blowers.
Common Culprits
- Convection (room air) blower – buzzing, rattling, or squealing
- Combustion blower – rumbling or grinding, especially at startup or shutdown
After years of heat and dust, bearings and bushings wear out.
What to Expect
- You can sometimes buy a little time by cleaning dust, ash, and debris from the fan blades and housing.
- But if the noise comes back quickly, replacing the blower is the long-term solution.
For many handy homeowners, swapping a blower is a manageable repair if you:
- Disconnect power
- Follow the steps in the manual
- Take photos as you go so you can match wiring and mounting positions
If you’re not comfortable doing this, any experienced pellet stove tech has done countless blower replacements and can usually knock it out quickly.
5. Stove Won’t Light – Igniter Problems
On a Big E that’s more than a decade old, a failing igniter is very common.
Typical symptoms:
- Pellets feed into the burnpot
- Combustion blower starts
- Pellets smolder or never ignite
Basic Checklist
1. Rule Out Airflow Around the Igniter
- Clean the burnpot and all of its air holes.
- Make sure ash isn’t packed around the igniter area or blocking air channels.
Poor airflow can make a good igniter look bad.
2. Consider Igniter Replacement
If the air path is clear and the stove still won’t reliably light:
- The igniter may no longer reach the necessary temperature.
- On a stove of this age, it’s often more practical to replace the igniter than to fight intermittent ignition problems.
6. Smoke Smell in the Room or Suspected Air Leaks
If you ever smell smoke in the living space while the stove is running:
🔴 Turn the stove off and let it cool completely before investigating.
Likely Causes on an Older Big E
- Loose or leaking vent connections inside the room
- Dried or cracked high-temperature sealant on vent joints
- Worn or damaged door, ash pan, or glass gaskets
- Clean-out covers or panels not fully latched
What You Can Check
Once everything is cool and unplugged:
- Inspect visible vent joints inside the room for looseness, gaps, or missing sealant.
- Check the door, glass, and ash pan gaskets for cracks, missing sections, or poor contact.
- Make sure all access panels and clean-out covers are properly closed and latched.
Minor leaks often can be solved by:
- Replacing gaskets
- Resealing vent joints with appropriate high-temp sealant
If you suspect a crack in the firebox, significant vent damage, or you’re unsure where the smoke is coming from, stop using the stove and call a qualified technician.
When to DIY and When to Call a Pro
After 10+ years of use, it’s normal for a Breckwell Big E to need extra cleaning and some replacement parts. Many owners can safely handle:
- Regular and deep cleaning (following the manual)
- Replacing gaskets
- Swapping out blowers or igniters if they’re mechanically inclined and careful
You should strongly consider calling a professional if:
- You’re dealing with persistent shutdown codes even after thorough cleaning
- Electrical diagnostics (switches, wiring, control board) are required
- You smell smoke or suspect venting issues
- You’re simply not comfortable taking the stove apart
A good pellet stove tech can often diagnose in one visit what might take you days of guesswork.
Getting the Right Parts for Your Big E
When you’re ready to replace parts on an older Big E, it’s important to:
- Confirm your exact model and serial number
- Match part numbers from your owner’s manual or existing components
- Choose quality replacement parts from a reputable source
If you’re not sure which auger motor, blower, igniter, or gasket kit is correct for your Breckwell Big E, reach out to a knowledgeable parts supplier with your model and serial information. They can help you get the right part the first time and avoid frustrating returns.
